Susanne's Madder Dye Recipe

Susanne's Madder Recipe

1. Set up the dyepot. Place the pulp scarf and all soaking water in a 5 gal heavy stainless pot (I use Vollrath-cost a lot but I've had them 30 years and they look like new and I use them a lot). Fill pot to within 6" of top. This allows room for fiber.

1. Raise temperature slowly to 160 to 180 F. I stir every once in a while. No higher or wool will be brownish. Madder pulp stays in the bath the entire time. Wool can be removed after 1 hour but color is deeper and more permanent if you cook longer,6-12 hours! It is better, yet, if it is allowed to cool completely in the bath. I have a heavy duty Chef King electric hot plate that can run on very low heat. Then I insulate the pot with a large piece of felt so the stove doesn't run so much. A thermometer is in the bath at all times. After 24 hours I let it cool overnight.

1. Do a third exhaustion and get salmon colors.

Susanne's Madder Recipe

1. Use 1 lb dry whole madder root per 1 lb mordanted wool (10% alum, and 5% cream of tarter)
2. Soak the whole madder for a minimum of 4 days in a warm environment. Seven to 10 days is better. It will foam like beer.
3. After soaking pulverize the softened roots in a blender. Use the soaking water and grind one handful at a time so you don't ruin the blender. Use more water if you run out of soaking water.
4. Set up a 4 qt bowl with a large square of fine silk(mordanted with alum-see below) lining it and lots of extra hanging over the edge of the bowl. Or make a bag 12" x 18" using very fine weave material.
5. Pour the masticated madderroot into the silk lined bowl or bag as you produce it.
6. When all the madder is done thus, carefully close the silk scarf around the pulpy mass making sure to leave no escape holes for the madder. Tie the scarf tightly. You can tie it again for more die effect. this will end up being a gorgeous silk tie dyed scarf! If using a bag tie it tightly at top.
7. Set up the dyepot.

      Place the pulp scarf and all soaking water in a 5 gal heavy stainless pot (I use Vollrath-cost a lot but I've had them 30 years and they look like new and I use them a lot). Fill pot to within 6" of top. This allows room for fiber. 

1. Add one lb mordanted (see above) wool. Water level should be within 2" from top.
2. Raise temperature slowly to 160 to 180 F. I stir every once in a while. No higher or wool will be brownish. Madder pulp stays in the bath the entire time. Wool can be removed after 1 hour but color is deeper and more permanent if you cook longer,6-12 hours! It is better, yet, if it is allowed to cool completely in the bath.

  I have a heavy duty Chef King electric hot plate that can run on very low heat. Then I insulate the pot with a large piece of felt so the stove doesn't run so much. A thermometer is in the bath at all times. After 24 hours I let it cool overnight.

1. You can do another pound in the same bath the on the same schedule and colors will beslightly lighter. Gorgeous over gray.
2. Do a third exhaustion and get salmon colors.
3. finally, pull out the scarf, undo the ties - use these for embroidery yarn. The scarf is gorgeous deep burgundy with a white ring (or 2 if I tie twice). Dry the pulp and give it to a friend who only likes pale shades of madder. or compost the pulp.

My madder root was from several sources: Prairie Fibers and Rainbow Fibers, directly from Pakistan and my own homegrown for 4 years.

Alum mordant

For one pound of wool or animal fiber (not silk)

Fill a 5 gallon non reactive pot with water.

Add and thoroughly dissolve 10% Alum (3.2 oz round off to 3.5) plus 5% cream of Tarter (1.8 oz, round off to 2oz).

Add scoured fiber which has been wetted down for 1/2 hour.

Slowly heat to simmer (180°F) and hold for 1 hour.

Allow to cool.

Remove and slowly dry. Do not rinse until you are ready to use. Then wash and rinse well.

Bath may be reused if clean by adding 1/2 the quantity of mordants. And can be used again .

Alum Mordant Alternative method

Follow the above recipe but leave in mordant for 1 week or more periodically reheating to prevent mold growth.

Silk Mordant (Cold method )

For 1 lb silk

Fill 5 gal pot with room temperature water and 8-16 oz alum.

Add silk and stir well. Leave for several days. Rinse well.Bath can be reused (From Jim Liles' book)